I don’t know about you but I find this pretty funny.   I mean, so sad that it is funny.  So here is how it works:

1. The government takes 2 billion tax dollars from you (which really they’ve already taken so they are actually borrowing from the Chinese so that you can pay back at a later date.)

2. They give the money back to you in the form of $4500 bucks for your clunker of a car…that actually could be working fine.

3.  You get to get a new car that is more fuel efficient – gets at least 20mpg on the hwy. Plus the special bonus of potentially having a car note that you didn’t have before.

4. The dealer takes your clunker and gives it to a junk yard that pours a chemical (liquid glass) into the engine – rendering it inoperable and then has 6 months to try to sell the spare parts like the transmission.  Whatever the junkyard can’t sell it is required by this law to  send the shredded metal remains of your car to China.

So how exactly is this benifiting the Japanese?

The Toyota Corolla is the top-selling vehicle on the list, followed by the Ford Focus, Honda Civic, Toyota Prius and the Toyota Camry. There is one SUV on the list, the Ford Escape, which also comes in a hybrid model that can get up to 32 miles per gallon. Six of the top-10 selling vehicles are built by foreign manufacturers, but most are built in North America.

That’s right all of the vehicles that get the best gas milage and/or reliable with the exception of the Ford Focus are Japanese cars.  Granted toyota has plants here in the US – the money still goes back to the headquarters in Japan.

This plan orignally was supposed to help GM and Chrystler but hey, when was the last time they made a decent car anyway?

But wait! There's more!

As Billy Mays says said, “There’s so much more!”

So what was the other motivation behind this cash for clunkers deal that is supposed to be win-win for getting non-fuel effient cars off the road and helping out the American Car Dealers out? We wanted to help the enviroment by having cars that had better fuel standards and less emmisions on the road.

Some simple calculations suggest that the existing program will save only about 365,000 metric tons of CO2 a year. Compare that to 29,028,000,000 tons of CO2 emitted worldwide every year, according to U.S. government estimates.

To put 365,000 metric tons in perspective, China’s CO2 emissions have been increasing by an average of 644,000,000 metric tons each of the last four years, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. As of 2006, China was producing 6,017,690,000 tons of CO2, and the United States was producing 5,902,750,000 tons.

Put another way, if the world’s output represented the driving distance from San Francisco to New York, car-for-clunkers’ share of CO2 emissions is the distance from CBSNews.com’s downtown San Francisco bureau to the nearest subway station. Which is only a few blocks away.

Here’s how I arrived at that number: Assume the old vehicle was rated at 18 MPG, and the new one at 24 MPG, and that the average vehicle is driven 12,000 miles a year. The owner will save 166 gallons of gas annually, meaning 3,220 lbs of CO2 or 1.46 metric tons. Adding that up over 250,000 vehicles gives us a total of 365,000 metric tons of CO2 a year.

That’s right, your tax dollars at work.

After having a $350 electric bill its time to start working on being more energy efficient.  Some of you know that I purchased a house in Round Rock (suburb of Austin) to fix it up and resell it.  Basically live in it for 2 years, thus making the taxes less when I sell it, and take my time to fix it and decide on what to do that improves the property value and what doesn’t improve the property value.  

July, August, and September here in Austin are usually really damn hot.  We have a lot of 98-102 degree weather here and with the cost of energy going up it makes it just that much more expensive so I figured purchasing tinted film for my windows (at least the ones that get the afternoon sun) is a wise investment. Who knows, it can only help the resale value. 

Being a moron I jumped the gun and didn’t research film prior to just buying a few rolls at Lowes.  The 30% (keeps out 70% light, reflective, UV, Heat etc) goes for $32 bucks a roll x4 rolls, and a $9 dollar kit. I’m down $150 bucks with taxes etc. I bought the 3′ wide roll and it works perfect for the majority of my windows and the sliding door.  I unfortunately didn’t know how to do this stuff(applying tint) aside from watching the guy who tinted my car in my garage but apparently that gave me enough of an idea to try it myself.

The film that comes from Lowes is pretty good (Gila) and it even comes with a moron’s guide to putting on film with pretty pictures.  But of course I knew best and started with the big ass sliding glass window and cut a large section for that first instead of you know.. cutting a smaller window first to learn.  Anyway, one piss poor application and a zillion bubbles later I decided to read the instructions and actually use a razor to get the extra dirt and grit off the glass before applying the next section of tint and I decided to try a smaller window.  (Of course I actually blame the not reading of the instructions on Mimzy because whenever a woman says “lets read the instructions” a switch in the mans brain says “lets not”.) 

So, half a roll down and basically half that I’m going to have to buy again in 6 months because it’s going to peel, I decide it was one of those good learning things that you just have to learn the hard way of what not to do. Choosing a smaller window pane was easy, I first cleaned with windex and a paper towel, then used the handy dandy spray bottle of application spray(read soap and distilled water) on the window as lubricant along with a razor blade to get the additional dirt of the window.  Next I sprayed with the application spray again and then used a squeegee to remove the water.  

I happen to have a glass dining room table and it turns out this is the absolute best surface to use when removing the clear coating from the sticky portion of the film.  Basically you take two pieces of tape (masking not duck) and put them on each side of the film, press together and then pull apart.  This separates the film from the protective clear stuff.  This also allows you to figure out which side is back and which side is the sticky side.  Once you know where the back is, you spray the glass table top and press the back of the film on that.  This keeps it down as you peel the rest of the clear coating off the film. As you remove the coating spray the sticky side with the application spray (soap and water).  Note: As long as you keep this stuff sprayed down good, the chances of it sticking to something else like your clothes… or itself are reduced, and I tell you from experience.

Once you’ve removed the outer coating and you have this film sprayed down laying on your table you spray the window again and leave it.  Lift up the corners of the film, put it on the window, spray the back of the film again and then use the squeegee on the first pass.  Once you have it where you like it and more or less stuck you then take the razor blade and cut the excess film off.  Note, this is not always easy with the rubber around windows, sometimes there is some excess silicone – you might have to cut the silicone or the film around it. 

Once you have used the squeegee you may want to use the plastic tool to push out any smaller air bubbles, its really handy for the hard to get stuff.  Voila tinted window pane, you have 24 hours or less to fix it before its really stuck.

Notes: Once I got the hang of it, I was able to do about 4 panes in 30 minutes with help from Mimzy pre-cutting and removing the backing while I was cleaning and preparing another window pane.  Doing this is really not a one man job, it can be done but its really, really, difficult. That extra set of hands holding the film while you carry it really helps.

Tips:

Measure the width and height of your windows before you go to pick up the film.  (That said you can get it cheaper online but you have to buy larger quantities. (I may actually buy some online if my friends want to go in with me)

Don’t buy the application spray unless you just want the spray bottle, once you run out of what is in it, put some joy and filtered/distilled water in it. 

Buy the razor/squeegee/hard plastic edge tool kit it is worth it unless you already have pro-tools, which if you do why are you reading this?

The plastic cutting edge tool is a pain, I just cut by hand and follow the window frame, it goes faster and it is actually more accurate. 

Find someone to help you, its not a one person job.  If you can, find someone who has done this before so they can show you all the do’s and don’ts.  

Clean the window several times and then use a razor blade scraper with soap and water.  You’ll be surprised when you look at the blade that its dirty.  There are lots of things you just can’t see but you can feel them and see them after they have collected on the razor blade.  Putting this film on requires super-clean glass.

Don’t be a moron and try a big window first (like your sliding glass door). Start small and cut a small window pane first.  

Amazingly enough after doing most of the windows in my house, it’s not too bad.  It cuts down on the heat for sure and it cuts down on glare.  I might even be coerced into helping you out (for a fee).